Following on from spring’s love affair with Orientalism, Vivienne Tam presented a collection oozing with eastern promise.
The show started with dark, structured wool coats featuring sweeping collars and wing-like shoulder panels, moving onto softer silk dresses with dense embroidery, fringing, and intricate prints.
Tam sited the 66-year-old Chinese tradition of ‘Kun Opera’ as her inspiration, explaining that her use of lace, crochet, appliqué techniques give the clothes a handcrafted quality.
Some dresses were slightly overworked and became too busy with elaborate prints and tassels, but sometimes the world needs a bit of exaggerated decadence, so if Chinoiserie is your thing, who am I to criticise?
By Vanessa Woodgate