London Fashion Week trend report: autumn/winter 2011

London Fashion Week ended yesterday with Ashish’s polished punk look, and gave us one main trend which we had seen over the past five days; oversized tartan checks, in abundance. Burberry had also sported the same pattern with its winter coats, and Vivienne Westwood exaggerated her ‘Alice in Wonderland’ theme with Mad Hatter style checks on trousers, shirts and skirts.

House of Holland also sported smaller checks in lilacs and pinks stamped over tweed suits. Country themed looks also continued with Mulberry, who showed off a homage to Rold Dahl’s, Fantastic Mr.Fox by producing an array of knits, leaf print dresses and parka and anorak coats all in a woodland-filled ballroom at Claridges.  

 

As for colour, they say ‘pink and green should never be seen’; however, at this season’s shows it was the main colour de jour. Shown at Ahsley Isham, Bora Aksu et al, tones ranged from mint to emerald and pale pink to fuchsia.

Soft tailoring at Paul Smith

Soft tailoring at Paul Smith

 

Wool was also the apparent way to stay warm next season. After Christopher Bailey’s shearling aviator coat success this winter, designers chose to layer pieces in every type of wool from mongolian to merino, cashmere to angora, and shearling all over again.

One of the biggest trends though were clashing prints; digital prints were a thing of the past as Mary Katrantzou changed her signature look for Fabergé eggs and Meissen porcelain, whilst Joanne Hynes teamed up with artist Helen Steele to produce their own collaboration, and Erdem headed to a Japanses garden for his inspiration: Clements Ribeiro also managed to merge baroque style prints for a faded effect.

After being big news for spring/summer 2011, pleated midi skirts were also spotted at shows, meaning they are here to stay: Mulberry showed off a beautiful dress version in lilac.

And lastly soft tailoring was shown everywhere from Paul Smith and Aquascutum to Richard Nicoll: jacket lapels were also big news as designers either traded them in for another material such as velvet (Jaeger),  removed them totally (PS),  or added an abundance of mohair.

Other trends spotted: gobstopper pearls at Holly Fulton, lace over dresses; plastic pieces courtesy of Christopher Kane, and colour spectrums from earthy tones to taupe blue, red, yellow and vibrant orange.

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