After three seasons away showing his grunge-esque collections either via live streaming or in experimental videos, designer Gareth Pugh has returned to the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week – and boy was it worth the wait.
After winning the ANDAM award back in July 2008 Pugh, who has shown his collections in Paris ever since, decided this season after joining the Pitti (Florance-based trade show), and designing a special collection for it, that his current collection would be an inspiration and continuation of the fashion video that was also shown there by British-based film-maker, Ruth Hogbe.
Like the video, the autumn/winter 2011/12 collection was dramatic, dark and referenced the centuries-old Catholic tradition of Florentine art and culture, with rich shades of stark black, deep blue and golds.
The collection however, was extremely wearable – a first for Pugh – but still had his signature construction and design ethos. Clothing consisted of billowing chiffon, batwing coats, big gold zips, draped pieces, cape coats and layered proportions.
Models adorned sheer face make-up with circular blue disc’s painted under their eyes, which matched the royal blue tones throughout the collection and created an eerie feeling. Best of all was a dark black chiffon hooded gown worn with a gold-square constructed turtle neck underneath. So poignant, so Pugh.