London Fashion Week: Bora Aksu spring/summer 2012 collection

For spring/summer 2012 Bora Aksu sent not one, but 9 models down the catwalk in a horizontal line. Walking on a sea of pink and red rose petals they adorned white sculpted dresses, skirts and structured tops complete with floral headpieces, moving with fluidity and grace.

The rest of the collection spanned from bright coral hues to midnight black and navy blue plus a palette of white, cream and toffee coloured clothing in-between. Opulent cocktail dresses were an instrumental part of the show showing off Aksu’s dramatic pleating and draping skills.

Aksu had taken inspiration from Edwardian thumbed postcards which he had found in an antique market in Geneva showing each lady in her finery, hence the inspiration for the collection was born. Hand sculped leather roses, lace and Georgette style clothing gave way to his Edwardian theme whilst dresses adorned sweeping curves – influenced by the handwriting on the postcards – and was also repeated on the corsetry. Separates were also key with Aksu maintaining his style by adding in silk Georgette blouses with crushed glass beaded collars, tailored trousers and short summer jackets in a variety of cotton, tulle and silk.

Models make-up was fresh and dewy with smokey eyes and nude lips, recreating a bygone era. For hair TONI&GUY’s International Artistic Director, Bill Watson, re-created a “low Victorian wave with texture, yet looking summary” that compromised of creating a centre parting by prepping with volume moose and blow drying the front section flat to the head. He then added dry shampoo and redirection style dust (all label.m products) to the back hair teasing it with his fingers to give a kind of sunburnt texture and then developing a romantic style loop that was tucked underneath producing “a Victorian style that was curvy in shape yet updated with something more wearable for next season.”


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