London Fashion Week: autumn/winter 2012/13 collections Day 1

Today we saw the launch of the autumn/winter 2012/13 collections at London Fashion Week. Set in the picturesque Somerset House amid the scrum and drama (and that was all before 10am), press, buyers and private clients all quipped excitedly as sartorialist photographers snapped away their choice of ‘best dressed’ before the shows got into full swing.

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Starting the week off denim brand Cheap Monday also opened its very first stand alone store on Carnaby Street. Quirky coloured jeans and casual jersey clothing were on the menu with celebrity fans such as Lana Del Rey amongst others. Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou also launched her diffusion line with Topshop which practically sold out online in minutes (www.topshop.com).

However, first up to show at the BFC space was design duo Antoni & Alison whom, after being away on the catwalk scene since 2005, managed to come back with a bang showcasing a fabulous display of quirky dresses in silk, pastels and prints.

Corrie Nielsen then dug back to her Scottish roots with a tartan inspired collection which took draping and tailoring to the next level. An ex-employee for Vivienne Westwood you could see the resemblance in the way the clothes were constructed, however, Nielsen made this her own when she entered an enchanting Victorian style ruffled floor length gown as her finale piece, which completely encompassed the model.

Bora Aksu went on to create a knit fest with his collections adding in silks and chiffon accessorising with big bows which were tied at the neck in pastel and grey hues alongside fabulous brocade detailing.

Irish designer Zoe Jordan followed swiftly with autumnal tones in chocolates, burnt orange and hemp greens whilst Holly Valance and Edith Bowman sat front row. A dash of red was injected into the mix whilst her wide-brimmed hats in an assortment of colours and snood style jackets completed the day wear look. For evening wear lace and tie dye maxi dresses with leather paneling were a hit, and models were styled with long flowing plaited ponytails.

At Jean Pierre Braganza models were dressed in mullet hem skirts and sequin batwing jumpers which later led to a burst of kaleidoscope colourings in violet and white and fiery reds alongside harem pants and large fur collars which made this collection seem like there was a 1980s woman on a mission. Make-up was bright leading with red lips, blush cheeks and high buns swept prominently to the front of their heads.

Aside from their monster celebrity turn out on the front row which included singer Pixie Lott, blow up persona Pandemonia, Jo Wood and presenters Jameela Jamil and Lisa Snowdon as well as the Lord Mayor of Westminster Susie Burbridge, PPQ once again managed to steal the limelight from todays showings. Opting to open the show with a model strolling down the catwalk with a bicycle they also brought a young, fun, fresh and funky take for the first time today. Models adorned rhinestone and diamonte tights alongside tweed tailored dress-jackets and tartan mohair scarfs which were either draped over the shoulder to create a highland effect and then tied in at the waist, or left to hang loose down the side of the floor length winter coats.

Jewels were also apparent as a big theme and were added to collars, décollage and boots to jazz up the collection. The 1940s silhouette was also prominent with cinched waists and fuller skirts but the epitome of the collection I feel was the evening wear which took on a whole new grown up level for the brand. Column dresses, mixtures of chiffon and silk materials as well as experimental transitional colours in white and grey.

Shows are continuing this evening with Basso and Brooke and Central Saint Martins MA Fashion.

Check out my full reviews for the show at www.whatbesttowear.com 

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