Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

After apparently insulting Amy Winehouse’s family with his homage [collection] to the singer during haute couture fashion week back in January we wondered where Jean Paul Gaultier was heading next for his autumn/winter 2012/13 collection.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

However luckily for him there was no backlash this time, instead a supportive flurry of reviews including a quotation from Vogue’s Harriet Quick whom stated that: “There were great metallics and an urban layering feel. I loved the gold and bronzes.”

She was referring of course to the graffiti inspired invite and the collection which evolved around it. JPG began by opening his show with a theatre sized curtain with an edgy yet chic background setting. This led swiftly onto a collection which seemed to be led by outerwear, more notably jackets in every shape and form: baseball, biker, evening, blazer, gilets and more, there seemed to be something for everyone.

These woman had a rock chick edge and although adorning fabulously tailored clothing seemed like they had been out all night and looked fabulous for doing so. Their hair was centrally or side parted with fluro dashes of colour painted on top; something we could imagine someone like Alice Dellal adorning come winter.

This then moved onto crazy prints in leather and python skin which were seen on matching suits and/or skirts and tops with oversized stitches in-between. For the more alluring night creature there were leather leggings, matched with cropped fur coats and a selection of gold lame and sequined pieces.

To end the show JPG wowed with a range of black and velvet evening gowns complete with thigh high split (just like Angelina) and an assortment of lace constructed pieces with bare skin showing through. Goth or glam, who cares, it was all worth seeing…

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Milan Fashion Week: Moschino and Just Cavalli autumn/winter 2012/13 collections

Funnily enough aside from showing on the same day at Milan Fashion Week (Friday 24 February) both fashion houses Moschino and Just Cavalli had a lot more in common than they would probably both like to admit. 

For autumn/winter 2012/13 both designers showed an amazing array of bright colours and huge 1960s references in their collections. 

Statement colour and sass was injected at Moschino whose cheeky showings of marabou  feathers on dresses were contrasted against ski pants with cropped jackets alongside matching miniskirt suits in pillar box red, sapphire blue and mustard: all extremely well executed tailoring throughout. Sequinned evening dresses paraded at the end whilst a cute selection of monochrome pieces were also thrown in. 

At Just Cavalli designer Roberto Cavalli’s collection used an assortment of muted camel and stone coloured tones and prints – synonymous with his younger diffusion line – as art deco drop waist style mini-dresses were paraded down the catwalk. As well as the tailoring on jackets there was also lame leggings and trousers complete with chiffon dresses and bobbled jumpers – all perfect for the younger trust fund generation. 

London Fashion Week: autumn/winter 2012/13 collections Day 2

This morning there seemed to be much more of a buzz surrounding the BFC show space at Somerset House. DAKS started off showing their autumn/winter 2012/13 collection with a tartan mix of light and dark browns alongside some stark black creations. The coat however where the show stopper pieces here with swing, pea and cropped versions all fitted, or hung, beautifully from models limbs. This swiftly then moved onto designer Clements Ribiero whom showed a selection of gorgeous cashmere sweaters and delightful stained glass prints on dresses, tops and trousers.

Jasper Conran autumn/winter 2012/13 collection
Jasper Conran autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

Designer Jasper Conran then ensued with a more than worthy front row which consisted of Dame Kelly Holmes, Kara Tointon, Beverley Knight, Richard E Grant and Jasmine Guinness. An autumnal palette of mocha, golds, browns and blacks and created a fabulous array of day and evening wear, especially with sequined dresses, feathered jumpers and fringed gowns; models all adorned a short low back bun in their hair with minimal make-up. Accessories wise there was a continuous use of pointed ankle shoes which were either plain leather or adorned bespoke jewels all over.

Next was a showing by Aquascutum which hosted One Direction star Harry Styles and comedian James Corden. The collection was heavily reliant on dark khaki greens, monochrome, light grey, navy and tweed collaborations. Models adorned elbow length gloves and biker chic jackets alongside leather skirts, tailored jackets and pristine white shirts. The look was quite militant but also high fashion, working day wear in an androgynous style.

At House of Holland the usual young celeb fash pack including Pixie Lott, Alexa Chung, Pixie Geldoff, Poppy Delevingne and Nick Grimshaw amongst others all took their front row seats as Henry Holland provided a nostalgic 1970s collection, complete with knitted jumpers and rainbow houndstooth pieces. This season Holland seems to be concentrating on styling women whom he is inspired by and grown up with therefore the designs slightly changed but the fun, of course, stayed.  His palette led by blue and navy skater dresses, flared leggings and all-in-ones complemented his evening dresses perfectly.

Unfortunately next up was veteran designer John Rocha whose usually wearable and colourful collections were completely thrown out by a new dark gothic inspired range. This crazy concoction of light green scrumpled dresses which quickly turned into dark chocolate browns and blacks were uninteresting and un-wearable to say the least. The saving grace however was his evening wear collection which combined wool, lace and sheer fabrics which were all infused together on dresses via panels.

Collections continue later today with shows from Temperley London, Issa, Ashley Isham and a presentation from Stella McCartney. More content to follow…

London Fashion Week: autumn/winter 2012/13 collections Day 1

Today we saw the launch of the autumn/winter 2012/13 collections at London Fashion Week. Set in the picturesque Somerset House amid the scrum and drama (and that was all before 10am), press, buyers and private clients all quipped excitedly as sartorialist photographers snapped away their choice of ‘best dressed’ before the shows got into full swing.

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Starting the week off denim brand Cheap Monday also opened its very first stand alone store on Carnaby Street. Quirky coloured jeans and casual jersey clothing were on the menu with celebrity fans such as Lana Del Rey amongst others. Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou also launched her diffusion line with Topshop which practically sold out online in minutes (www.topshop.com).

However, first up to show at the BFC space was design duo Antoni & Alison whom, after being away on the catwalk scene since 2005, managed to come back with a bang showcasing a fabulous display of quirky dresses in silk, pastels and prints.

Corrie Nielsen then dug back to her Scottish roots with a tartan inspired collection which took draping and tailoring to the next level. An ex-employee for Vivienne Westwood you could see the resemblance in the way the clothes were constructed, however, Nielsen made this her own when she entered an enchanting Victorian style ruffled floor length gown as her finale piece, which completely encompassed the model.

Bora Aksu went on to create a knit fest with his collections adding in silks and chiffon accessorising with big bows which were tied at the neck in pastel and grey hues alongside fabulous brocade detailing.

Irish designer Zoe Jordan followed swiftly with autumnal tones in chocolates, burnt orange and hemp greens whilst Holly Valance and Edith Bowman sat front row. A dash of red was injected into the mix whilst her wide-brimmed hats in an assortment of colours and snood style jackets completed the day wear look. For evening wear lace and tie dye maxi dresses with leather paneling were a hit, and models were styled with long flowing plaited ponytails.

At Jean Pierre Braganza models were dressed in mullet hem skirts and sequin batwing jumpers which later led to a burst of kaleidoscope colourings in violet and white and fiery reds alongside harem pants and large fur collars which made this collection seem like there was a 1980s woman on a mission. Make-up was bright leading with red lips, blush cheeks and high buns swept prominently to the front of their heads.

Aside from their monster celebrity turn out on the front row which included singer Pixie Lott, blow up persona Pandemonia, Jo Wood and presenters Jameela Jamil and Lisa Snowdon as well as the Lord Mayor of Westminster Susie Burbridge, PPQ once again managed to steal the limelight from todays showings. Opting to open the show with a model strolling down the catwalk with a bicycle they also brought a young, fun, fresh and funky take for the first time today. Models adorned rhinestone and diamonte tights alongside tweed tailored dress-jackets and tartan mohair scarfs which were either draped over the shoulder to create a highland effect and then tied in at the waist, or left to hang loose down the side of the floor length winter coats.

Jewels were also apparent as a big theme and were added to collars, décollage and boots to jazz up the collection. The 1940s silhouette was also prominent with cinched waists and fuller skirts but the epitome of the collection I feel was the evening wear which took on a whole new grown up level for the brand. Column dresses, mixtures of chiffon and silk materials as well as experimental transitional colours in white and grey.

Shows are continuing this evening with Basso and Brooke and Central Saint Martins MA Fashion.

Check out my full reviews for the show at www.whatbesttowear.com 

Atelier Versace opens Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2012

This luxurious Italian brand has not shown in Paris since 2004 and yesterday, as editors from around the globe disembarked upon Paris, Atlelier Versace was re-born to show their latest collection at Haute Couture Fashion Week.

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Showing their spring/summer 2012 range under a scrutiny of famous faces which included U.S. Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, actresses Cameron Diaz, Diane Kruger and Abbie Cornish designer Donatella Versace looked on calmly as a cascade of warrior style women approached the catwalk. To start Versace teamed sci-fi style biker jackets covered in lace and lined panels with matching hot pants; both adorning gold metal trims and complete with thigh-high lace boots (or what seemed to be a mixture of lace half cut stocking over fabulous high heeled courts). This then ensued with almost felt style bodices in bright sunshine yellow; again with futuristic designs and tailoring.

The designs then proceeded onto a selection of short cocktail dresses with ruffled peplum waists and brocade materials in gold, glacier blue and greys all encased with intricate beading, sequins and detailing that would not have looked out of place on Xena: Warrior Princess.

For eveningwear Versace slightly toned it down in a palette of pillar box red, lime green, orange and cream hues on a selection of full-length gowns, again all in a complex mix of high-tech and sophisticated designs which had clearly taken months to assemble by hand.

Hair stood its own ground with on-trend scraped back high ponytails and powerful dark sultry eyes complete with nude lips. Donatella was a woman on a mission and judging by her designs she had clearly won the battle with haute couture.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week autumn/winter 2012 review

Just before haute couture hits our (computer) screens next week the male species have been enjoying their own nod to autumn/winter 2012 trends with Milan and Paris fashion week, which was prompted by the start of Milan Men’s Fashion Week last weekend (Saturday 14th).

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Designers to have already shown in Milan ranged from the fabulous Burberry Prorsum to quirky Prada; which boasted an array of celebrity models that included Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell and William Dafoe amongst others.

Now these chiselled Adonis’ (the models) have moved to Paris where they have already walked for Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton and Balmain to name a few and will be bringing the catwalk’s to a close later today with Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Givenchy and John Galliano.

Gaultier of course gave the crowed a spectacular event as always adorning his models with dreadlocks, dapper goatees and fiery red hair whilst being draped in a selection of textured knitwear, brick prints and precise tailoring. At Louis Vuitton menswear was inspired by 1970s Paris and illustrator Antonio Lopez as creative director Kim Jones produced a Japanese style collection with kimono silk pieces, velvet and a dash of retro shearling.

Shows will continue to run with designers such as Kenzo – whom are live streaming their show via www.kenzo.com – showing tomorrow: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are unveiling their first menswear collection for the brand. Paris Men’s Fashion Week will finish Paul Smith and Acne on Sunday evening.

Milan Fashion Week opens: Gucci spring/summer 2012

Gucci Shop in Wien

On Wednesday as London Fashion Week said goodbye to its last collections for menswear , Milan Fashion Week also opened to show its spring/summer 2012 collections.

Amid rife and rumors that Gucci had requested staple models hours before shows started in London, designers spent most of its short-lived fashion week in a chaotic panic.

It all started with Marc Jacobs whose design team had lost important time during Hurricane Irene when it hit the East Coast of America. Having to push his show back made everything drop out of sync, and models were left waiting till the last hour on Friday – when the London shows started – in New York to see whether they were still being cast or not.

Then came a further blow on Friday as major Italian brand Gucci, and creative director Frida Giannini demanded a pre-casting request in Milan. Models were expected to fly out for the casting, then fly back Saturday to meet with Giannini again if they were successful and stay over for fittings the next day. This then created a mess because models were pulled from shows without designers being told, or just not turning up to fittings.

This comes as no surprise though as for years London has been fighting against time schedules with New York and Milan, being squeezed of hours/days each and every season. This time however it seems that the UK based designers and model agencies have had enough and are threatening to boycott London Fashion Week if the British Fashion Council does not step in and intervene.

However, from London to Milan Gucci did kick off in style yesterday with Giannini’s chosen models adorning dropped waist flapper dresses drenched in gold fringing and beading with copious amounts of black satin. The look was 1920s flapper girl met with bellhop attire for day wear that was reminiscent of Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire. Art Deco style lines were used throughout the collection, alongside floaty chiffon dresses and tops, worn with skinny piped black trousers dressed with gold buttons on the ankles. Drop wait tuxedo-style jackets with smart gold chain’s attaching them were also paired with monochrome trousers and tops worn with statement quiff hair and dramatic dark eyes. Green and orange hues also appeared throughout: one thing is for sure though Gucci’s opulence will continue no matter what the economic downfall may be.

Milan Fashion Week continues this week with catwalk shows from designers such as Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace and Prada.