Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

After apparently insulting Amy Winehouse’s family with his homage [collection] to the singer during haute couture fashion week back in January we wondered where Jean Paul Gaultier was heading next for his autumn/winter 2012/13 collection.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

However luckily for him there was no backlash this time, instead a supportive flurry of reviews including a quotation from Vogue’s Harriet Quick whom stated that: “There were great metallics and an urban layering feel. I loved the gold and bronzes.”

She was referring of course to the graffiti inspired invite and the collection which evolved around it. JPG began by opening his show with a theatre sized curtain with an edgy yet chic background setting. This led swiftly onto a collection which seemed to be led by outerwear, more notably jackets in every shape and form: baseball, biker, evening, blazer, gilets and more, there seemed to be something for everyone.

These woman had a rock chick edge and although adorning fabulously tailored clothing seemed like they had been out all night and looked fabulous for doing so. Their hair was centrally or side parted with fluro dashes of colour painted on top; something we could imagine someone like Alice Dellal adorning come winter.

This then moved onto crazy prints in leather and python skin which were seen on matching suits and/or skirts and tops with oversized stitches in-between. For the more alluring night creature there were leather leggings, matched with cropped fur coats and a selection of gold lame and sequined pieces.

To end the show JPG wowed with a range of black and velvet evening gowns complete with thigh high split (just like Angelina) and an assortment of lace constructed pieces with bare skin showing through. Goth or glam, who cares, it was all worth seeing…

Paris Fashion Week: Christian Dior autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

On Friday it was Christian Dior’s turn to host their autumn/winter 2012/13 collection, and with rumours rife that both Stefano Pilati (whom had left Yves Saint Laurent) and Raf Simons (who had shown his last collection for Jil Sander) may both be possibilities of taking over this heritage fashion house they were once again squashed by Bill Gaytten who continued to show for his second R-T-W season at Dior.

CHRISTIAN DIOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

CHRISTIAN DIOR AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

Last season it was all about the 1950s glamour and this continued again with cinched and belted waists under a cascade of peplum tops, dresses and skirts alongside lady-like leather gloves worn to the elbows.

A selection of houndstooth print jackets were incorporated alongside pleats, fur coats and a palette which ranged from dusky pink to midnight blue. Silk was shown throughout on bows, skirts, dresses and panels which streamed down dresses.

There was also block colour coats with a finale of Oscar worthy gowns swathed in tulle and completed with chiffon with corseted and silk tops.

Paris Fashion Week: Balmain autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

BALMAIN AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

BALMAIN AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

A Balmain women, when under the direction of Christophe Decarnin, was always ready to walk into battle or hang with the band in muted tones and box glitter gold jackets. Usually you could spot a Balmain girl or design a mile off, however, now under the direction of Olivier Rousteing (this is his second season with the brand) there is something new in the DNA. Rousteing seems to have taken the label in a more grown up direction, whilst still showing the same aesthetics that you associate with the French fashion house.

Therefore for his autumn/winter 2012/13 collections Rousteing showed us a selection of beautiful brocade and dresses, tops and jackets with opulent shades of peal white and golds mixed in with Henry VIII style tapestry clothing in heavy black materials and white thread consisting of leggings, trousers, loose-fitting jackets which was carried over into oyster shade suits: these armour fashion suits made a statement to the fashion world that the Balmain women will always be ready for battle.

Alongside this there was the usual metallic Balmain biker jacket and padded jeans; all swathed in studs, cut-out materials and an assortment of cultural references. Finally box quilt jackets, black suits, jackets, trousers all embossed with gold buttons and chain link belts completed the collection.

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

For autumn/winter 2012/13 Paris Fashion Week seems to be giving a whole lot more. Clashing whole heartedly with Milan Fashion Week and exposing a lot more new and diffusion designers than usual.

BALENCIAGA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

BALENCIAGA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

One of the first to make an impression was French fashion house Balenciaga. This time round creative director Nicolas Ghesquière brought back the 1980s with a bang. There was a nod to techno-pieces, sharp tailored power suits that you could imagine his corporation adorning if this were Balenciaga Ltd. come 1989.

Ghesquière’s palette also consisted of  lots of electric blue and metallic materials on show, with animal prints, neon colours and models who walked adopted cropped hair with a slight blow dry effect; not too dissimilar to what Demi Moore would have adorned. Oversized baseball jackets and jumpers were key whilst saddle bags, glitter jumpers and roll necks were also incorporated with a-line skirts and socks and high-heeled sandals.

There were also cute transfer jumpers teamed with billowing pants as well as futuristic leather jackets with space age materials in sheer and metallic colourings.

Milan Fashion Week: Dolce & Gabbana autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

With their diffusion line no longer showing Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have put all their extra energy into their mainline collection at Milan Fashion Week.

DOLCE & GABBANA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

DOLCE & GABBANA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

For autumn/winter 2012/13 their range (not too dissimilar to the attention of Temperley and Issa London with their Russian and Trans-Siberian influences) was a magical display of black velvet and gold brocade which the models were swathed in. Their signature design was not only shown in the clothing (on the décolletage of jackets, mid drift on dresses etc) but was also continued throughout on footwear and accessories including jewellery and headpieces.

Lace and sheer fabrics were also a big theme as these Russian dolls adorned beautifully crafted cocktail dresses with cut-out panels replaced by translucent materials and boned corseting; opulent to say the least. Fur stoles with matching bags, laced-up ankle boots and luxurious capes which were also crafted or sewn with gold thread. White lace dresses alongside black lace dresses that appeared to be leopard print but was in fact lace with laser cut flower appliqués dotted carefully across the body to give a different illusion. This was also the case with silver lace and pearls.

To end models adorned black lace veils, cute velvet bloomer-like shorts with floral beading on and ruffled white flamenco style tops and dresses. There was also a section of folk style dresses with floral patterns alongside chintzy prints on black silk day dresses. Lady-like bags were key but all in all this is one collection that will be setting high street trends come autumn.

Milan Fashion Week: Versace autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

For spring/summer 2012 Donatella Versace (in my eyes) can do no wrong. I was mesmerised by her brilliant aquatic ‘under the water’ theme and hypnotised by beautiful brights, sea prints and sheer pieces.

VERSACE AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

VERSACE AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

For autumn/winter 2012/13 however the designer has decided to switch t0 goth glam. Models skulked down the runway in velvet, stark black clothing with embossed crucifixes, studs and leather materials whilst fishnet thigh-high and knee-high boots (in the same style as tights) came with a whole new seam down the front of the leg.

Donatella threw caution to the wind as she noted that her collection was “a sexy rock vibe against a backdrop of dark seduction”. She wasn’t wrong as this is what I imagine women wearing if we were all were cast in a role as sexy seductresses in Blade Trinity.

Sequin jumpers, leather skirts and dresses and velvet concoctions all embossed or hand printed into the clothing. There was also a selection of chain mail, biker jackets and alligator coats with fringing fur on the shoulders and arms, with dashes of sunshine yellow, bright orange and neutral tones; some pieces were even stitched to produce a Frankenstein effect on dresses. However, the real predator of the night will be the woman adorning these sexy pieces come autumn…

Milan Fashion Week: Moschino and Just Cavalli autumn/winter 2012/13 collections

Funnily enough aside from showing on the same day at Milan Fashion Week (Friday 24 February) both fashion houses Moschino and Just Cavalli had a lot more in common than they would probably both like to admit. 

For autumn/winter 2012/13 both designers showed an amazing array of bright colours and huge 1960s references in their collections. 

Statement colour and sass was injected at Moschino whose cheeky showings of marabou  feathers on dresses were contrasted against ski pants with cropped jackets alongside matching miniskirt suits in pillar box red, sapphire blue and mustard: all extremely well executed tailoring throughout. Sequinned evening dresses paraded at the end whilst a cute selection of monochrome pieces were also thrown in. 

At Just Cavalli designer Roberto Cavalli’s collection used an assortment of muted camel and stone coloured tones and prints – synonymous with his younger diffusion line – as art deco drop waist style mini-dresses were paraded down the catwalk. As well as the tailoring on jackets there was also lame leggings and trousers complete with chiffon dresses and bobbled jumpers – all perfect for the younger trust fund generation.