Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

After apparently insulting Amy Winehouse’s family with his homage [collection] to the singer during haute couture fashion week back in January we wondered where Jean Paul Gaultier was heading next for his autumn/winter 2012/13 collection.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

However luckily for him there was no backlash this time, instead a supportive flurry of reviews including a quotation from Vogue’s Harriet Quick whom stated that: “There were great metallics and an urban layering feel. I loved the gold and bronzes.”

She was referring of course to the graffiti inspired invite and the collection which evolved around it. JPG began by opening his show with a theatre sized curtain with an edgy yet chic background setting. This led swiftly onto a collection which seemed to be led by outerwear, more notably jackets in every shape and form: baseball, biker, evening, blazer, gilets and more, there seemed to be something for everyone.

These woman had a rock chick edge and although adorning fabulously tailored clothing seemed like they had been out all night and looked fabulous for doing so. Their hair was centrally or side parted with fluro dashes of colour painted on top; something we could imagine someone like Alice Dellal adorning come winter.

This then moved onto crazy prints in leather and python skin which were seen on matching suits and/or skirts and tops with oversized stitches in-between. For the more alluring night creature there were leather leggings, matched with cropped fur coats and a selection of gold lame and sequined pieces.

To end the show JPG wowed with a range of black and velvet evening gowns complete with thigh high split (just like Angelina) and an assortment of lace constructed pieces with bare skin showing through. Goth or glam, who cares, it was all worth seeing…

Paris Men’s Fashion Week autumn/winter 2012 review

Just before haute couture hits our (computer) screens next week the male species have been enjoying their own nod to autumn/winter 2012 trends with Milan and Paris fashion week, which was prompted by the start of Milan Men’s Fashion Week last weekend (Saturday 14th).

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Designers to have already shown in Milan ranged from the fabulous Burberry Prorsum to quirky Prada; which boasted an array of celebrity models that included Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell and William Dafoe amongst others.

Now these chiselled Adonis’ (the models) have moved to Paris where they have already walked for Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton and Balmain to name a few and will be bringing the catwalk’s to a close later today with Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Givenchy and John Galliano.

Gaultier of course gave the crowed a spectacular event as always adorning his models with dreadlocks, dapper goatees and fiery red hair whilst being draped in a selection of textured knitwear, brick prints and precise tailoring. At Louis Vuitton menswear was inspired by 1970s Paris and illustrator Antonio Lopez as creative director Kim Jones produced a Japanese style collection with kimono silk pieces, velvet and a dash of retro shearling.

Shows will continue to run with designers such as Kenzo – whom are live streaming their show via www.kenzo.com – showing tomorrow: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are unveiling their first menswear collection for the brand. Paris Men’s Fashion Week will finish Paul Smith and Acne on Sunday evening.

Paris Fashion Week: Spring/Summer 2012 round-up trend review

Coral

Over the past week Paris has flaunted it’s fabulous array of talent resulting in a string of apparent themes and trends for spring/summer 2012. 

First and foremost a continuation trend which initially started in London and swept through Milan onto Paris; this was the ‘under the sea’ theme. Seen at Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, Versace, Armani, Chanel and Alexander McQueen, models were transported thousands of feet under the ocean showing off shimmering scales, aquatic prints and mermaid-like apparel on dresses, tops, jackets, trousers and cardigans which comprised of jelly fish, sea horses, oversized diamante star fishes, coral and more, creating the perfect tranquil ambience; apart from the occassional delighted fashion gasp in the front row. 

Other trends that emerged throughout the week came from such designers as Valentino and Jean Paul Gaultier showing sheer and lace (Gaultier added leather, PVC and corsetry throughout). This trend was then escalated into laser cut pieces and 3-D sculpturing at Gareth Pugh. 

Midnight blue hues were also big on the catwalk seen everywhere from Lanvin to Jean Paul Gaultier and Viktor & Rolf to Miu Miu. 

Embellishment was also key at Balmain, Yves Saint Laurent and Chanel amongst others. Alongside this was classic florals and a barrage of usual summer white pieces all seen at Louis Vuitton, Chloe, Nina Ricci and Celine. 

Stella McCartney thought outside the box with her oversized tie prints showing on pyjama style tops and matching bottoms, but aside from this there was also the models that included Orlando Bloom’s beau Miranda Kerr whom also took to the catwalk at a variety of shows. 


Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2012 review

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Image via Wikipedia

French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier opened his show in quite an unusual style on Saturday evening (1 October 2011) during Paris Fashion Week. For his spring/summer collection Gaultier opted to bring out a compere that spoke to the audience in French and English beforehand telling some jokes and asking those present to clap for the models.

However, this was quite a show as the compere continued to elaborate as models came down the catwalk – carrying numbered cards – describing Gaultier’s latest range and bizarrely what the models hobbies were; somewhat resembling a beauty pageant show.

Apart from the compere Gaultier’s collection had in fact harked back to his earlier collections – approximately 15 or so years ago – with signature trench coats, striped trousers and white shirts. Alongside this were staple tattooed motifs on arms covers, sheer bodies and tights, alongside dresses and trousers.

Models also adorned a touch of 1940s style with siren red lips and victory rolls in their hair; cute sailor inspired navy blazers and breton striped clothing were also in play as well as  monochrome pieces and a mixed palette of coral, powder blue and musty yellow.

Finishing with an array of corsetry, leather and PVC Gaultier showed off his iconic styles and paired homage to his fabulous albeit extravagant designs once again.

Autumn/Winter 2011/2012 fashion trends

pencil and pastel sketches drawn by Brian Ston...

Image via Wikipedia

So, the weather has finally switched back to drizzly and instead of donning our favourite LSDs (Little Summer Dresses) we’re actually pulling out the leggings and old jumpers in despair; but fear not, as the high street is already brimming with looks to fit autumn/winter 2011/2012 trends perfectly.

If you’ve already swatted up on your trends then you’ll know exactly what to buy, but for those who haven’t read a magazine in weeks – and for all my lovely friends and family who are asking – this guide is just for you!

Let’s start with what I think will be the biggest, and most wearable, hit this season – the forties. The forties trend was practically reinvented by Gucci and shown throughout the fashion catwalks. Kate Moss set the precedence when she opted to adorn Miu Miu’s orange sequin and embroidered tea dress on the front of Vogue U.K.  August 2011 edition. However, day dresses, cocoon skirts, pencil skirt and jacket combinations and mid-length pleated skirts alongside cinched waists, skinny belts, fur collars, fedora hats, pearl necklaces, three-quarter length leather gloves and mary-jane heels were all spanned across Donna Karan, Louis Vuitton, Marni, Gucci and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Best 40s hot spot on the high street: Dorothy Perkins

Next up is jewel tones. Also pushed through by Gucci for next season but shown at Roksanda Ilincic, Lanvin, Ralph Lauren et al with colours ranging from sapphire to citrine, emerald to ruby and more. Structurally you can wear silk shirts by day and billowing silk dresses by night for added opulence.

Jewel tones shown already: River Island and Zara amongst others

Tartan was also another winner in the style stakes, harking back to Scottish tradition with designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Burberry Prorsum and Moschino Cheap & Chic  all checking it into their collections. Karl Lagerfeld used his version to update the classic Chanel tweed coat with MaxMara also adapting their tartan-check coats with sequins that shimmered perfectly in the light.

Best on the high street so far: Marks and Spencer and New Look

Spots were also huge via Stella McCartney, showing off sheer panelled dresses with spots encompassed throughout. Cheryl Cole already adorned one of McCartney’s short white versions for her birthday party earlier this year but the black versions will be fabulous for Christmas season. Diane Von Furstenberg also exaggerated her spots into oversized holes with netting underneath on a classic silk black maxi dress whilst Marc Jacobs produced a skirt-trouser and top-skirt combination that was adorned in polka dots.

For an array of spots head to Max C

Other major trends to covet the catwalk came in the form of fetish clothing. PVC, leather and lace which were all used to create erotic looks. Straps, capes, boned corsets along with sheer and leather panelled dresses were either dressed up for night with sequined under garments a la Dolce & Gabbana, or dressed down for day time wear with night-porter caps and elbow-length gloves – as seen at Emporio Armani.

Get the look: Anne Summers & La Senza

Finally masculine tailoring was brought back to life by Michael Kors, Temperley, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger – the latter producing a 1930s spin-off mobster/gangster pin stripe suit effect. Style your look up with oversized suits for day and tuxedos complete with tails and cumberbunds for night.

Try menswear stores such as Jaeger, Asos.com, Austin Reed, Brooks Brothers et al

RE-CAP AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/2012 MAIN TRENDS ARE: Forties glamour, hints of 1960s and 70s, jewel tones, tartan, spots, monochrome, a flash of 70s, cocoon dresses, floral prints, fetish clothing, masculine tailoring, aquatic looks and shimmering metallic.

Paris Haute Couture: Chanel

Apologies for the delay in review

No bright outbursts or spectrum hues, or terribly dramatic signatures of statement pieces. The Chanel haute couture spring/summer 2011 catwalk show was instead light, precise, clean-cut, chic, and above all simple. The simplicity in fact is what we all know and love, and Karl Lagerfeld showed that in abundance. Dropped waist dresses (which have been on the s/s circuit), crystal beaded shift dresses with an ornate branch style pattern on them, and classic monochrome Chanel tweed jackets adorned the catwalk like a beautiful frost on an early morning.

Bedazzled by Lagerfeld’s legacy of creations I have always been a fan since I could remember and he didn’t disappoint this time. Icy tones revealed an almost grecian inspiration with some of the clothing in hues of metallic pewter, grey, white, pale blues and soft light pinks.

Some of the dresses were also quite reminiscent of Daryl Hannah in her 80s heyday, and would easily have looked in place in her ‘Wall Street‘ party wardrobe.

The only thing I pondered was the flat back point-toe shoes with a clear ankle strap; practical yet not so alluring at first, I am now however, kind of getting used to them and am adding them to my summer wish list!

View the collection here

Paris Haute couture Fashion Week

As we awake to another dull, mild, miserable day in London little do most know that on the other side of the water Paris is awaking to the bright lights, dramatic, and intense week, that is Haute Couture.

Only a handful of fashion editors, wealthy clients and buyers will feast their eyes on the creative delights that await from such fashion houses as Dior and Givenchy, and only a selective few designers are ever asked to show in front of these people. It is the crème de la crème of the fashion world and if you’re name isn’t down you are certainly not coming in. Those lucky few – some who have shown for years, comprise of Chanel, Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier et al, and throughout the four days showing a total of just over twenty designers will showcase; that’s less than half of what is packed into a four-day stint at London Fashion Week.

My favourites are always Chanel, Valentino and Dior. Dreamy and inspirational they are whimsical ideals which allow you to get lost in the images for hours. However, already editors are tweeting and filing copy; The Daily Telegraph‘s Fashion Director, Hilary Alexander, is already on the scene and has managed to report a preview on the Armani Privé collection for spring/summer 2011 before it is even shown at 6pm (Paris time) today.

I for one will be watching – and blogging – with a beady eye. This is one fashion week I plan not to miss…