London Fashion Week: autumn/winter 2012/13 collections day 4

Peter Pilotto, Antonio Berardi and Pringle of Scotland all kicked off with trend led pieces on day 4 of London Fashion Week.

MCQ AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

Erdem followed with his colourful collection showing off super soft leather which could have easily been mistaken for tweed and silk. Lace overlays on tops, jackets and dresses were also a huge inspiration for the designer while colour clashes on cap sleeved tops and soft tulip shaped skirts were vivid, vibrant and fun for a harsh winter day. His palette consisted of purple, black, blue, yellow, cream, green and turquoise with a hint fuchsia.

Next up was the hotly anticipated showing by Burberry, which did not disappoint. Chief creative officer Christopher Bailey watched from behind the scenes as FROW guests such as Will.i.am, Alexa Chung, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and actress Kate Bosworth were packed in before the show started. the range itself was quirky, fun and different to what Bailey has shown before. All extremely wearable and want-able this cute woodland inspired collection consisted of owl and bird print motifs on tee shirts and jumpers some emblazoned with sequins. There was also a selection of peplum style padded jackets, striped skirts with billowing blouses and cute soft leather bow belts which cinched in all waists. Menswear was dapper and very quintessential with fabulous duck head umbrellas on show. To end the show (although it was dry outside) Bailey made it ran over the roof of the glass house he had constructed in Hyde Park just to show his collection, as models opened umbrella’s and walked down a runway of fake paper rain inside.

Although some spectacular showings the day had to end on a high with McQ and for next season designer Sarah Burton (who had brought the diffusion line back to London this season to show) created a dark eery forest in which press, buyers and private clients sat above a floor drenched in crisp autumnal leaves.

The collection itself was extremely wearable, edgy yet chic and obviously a lot more affordable than the mainline Alexander McQueen label. For men there was Gestapo style creations with militant green suits, ties and jackets as well as plastic pvc coats and stark black tailoring. Womenswear was slightly less formal; there were still military style coats however softer hues and tartan check a-line coats which led to beautiful evening wear of rich berry red velvet dresses alongside floral layered prom dresses.

London Fashion Week: autumn/winter 2012/13 collections – Day 2 part 2

On Saturday to finish the day off Temperley London showed their Russian themed collection which consisted of oversized cossack hats, folk clothing, embroided pieces and ornamented designs. Materials were woven in rich colours with yarns of gold which could easily of harked back to the days of Catherine the Great or to another famous Russian Tsar.

ISSA LONDON FALL/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

Military style coats were also adorned with brass buttons whilst regal style brocades were used on day wear. For evening wear Temperley became more modern with long flowing backless gowns in navy and monochrome colours whilst a selection of gold sequin dresses set the collection off perfectly.

To add to the royal theme one of The Duchess of Cambridge’s favourite designers then followed on. Designer Daniella Issa Helayel then opted to follow on with a Trans-Sibierian Express collection which notably had a Russian theme also. Again some models adorned cossack hats in this collection but others came onto the runway with pristine brunette locks, not too dissimilar to Kate Middleton. There was also a slight nod to HRH Queen Elizabeth II in anticipation of her Diamond Jubilee as a few models wore printed headscarves in the same manner to which the Queen usually does on unofficial engagements. Aside from the bright pillar box red evening dresses in China red lace and 1920s flapper style dresses (both of which we could easily imagine The Duchess of Cambridge in) there was also a 1970s style vibe with dragon, lantern and Ming vase prints all adorned on skirts, all-in-ones, leggings and maxi dresses in red, navy, green, orange and turquoise blue.

To end the evening fashion designer Stella McCartney held a soiree for her latest collection hosting celebrity and fashion editor guests for a formal dinner which turned into an impromptu flash dance by a mob of models who were unsuspectedly sitting alongside guests at their tables. Before hand Stella had brought in a magician, who also amazed by hypnotizing presenter Alexa Chung to lie unsuspectedly on a bed of knives. Only in the fashion world would this ever happen…

London Fashion Week: autumn/winter 2012/13 collections Day 1

Today we saw the launch of the autumn/winter 2012/13 collections at London Fashion Week. Set in the picturesque Somerset House amid the scrum and drama (and that was all before 10am), press, buyers and private clients all quipped excitedly as sartorialist photographers snapped away their choice of ‘best dressed’ before the shows got into full swing.

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Starting the week off denim brand Cheap Monday also opened its very first stand alone store on Carnaby Street. Quirky coloured jeans and casual jersey clothing were on the menu with celebrity fans such as Lana Del Rey amongst others. Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou also launched her diffusion line with Topshop which practically sold out online in minutes (www.topshop.com).

However, first up to show at the BFC space was design duo Antoni & Alison whom, after being away on the catwalk scene since 2005, managed to come back with a bang showcasing a fabulous display of quirky dresses in silk, pastels and prints.

Corrie Nielsen then dug back to her Scottish roots with a tartan inspired collection which took draping and tailoring to the next level. An ex-employee for Vivienne Westwood you could see the resemblance in the way the clothes were constructed, however, Nielsen made this her own when she entered an enchanting Victorian style ruffled floor length gown as her finale piece, which completely encompassed the model.

Bora Aksu went on to create a knit fest with his collections adding in silks and chiffon accessorising with big bows which were tied at the neck in pastel and grey hues alongside fabulous brocade detailing.

Irish designer Zoe Jordan followed swiftly with autumnal tones in chocolates, burnt orange and hemp greens whilst Holly Valance and Edith Bowman sat front row. A dash of red was injected into the mix whilst her wide-brimmed hats in an assortment of colours and snood style jackets completed the day wear look. For evening wear lace and tie dye maxi dresses with leather paneling were a hit, and models were styled with long flowing plaited ponytails.

At Jean Pierre Braganza models were dressed in mullet hem skirts and sequin batwing jumpers which later led to a burst of kaleidoscope colourings in violet and white and fiery reds alongside harem pants and large fur collars which made this collection seem like there was a 1980s woman on a mission. Make-up was bright leading with red lips, blush cheeks and high buns swept prominently to the front of their heads.

Aside from their monster celebrity turn out on the front row which included singer Pixie Lott, blow up persona Pandemonia, Jo Wood and presenters Jameela Jamil and Lisa Snowdon as well as the Lord Mayor of Westminster Susie Burbridge, PPQ once again managed to steal the limelight from todays showings. Opting to open the show with a model strolling down the catwalk with a bicycle they also brought a young, fun, fresh and funky take for the first time today. Models adorned rhinestone and diamonte tights alongside tweed tailored dress-jackets and tartan mohair scarfs which were either draped over the shoulder to create a highland effect and then tied in at the waist, or left to hang loose down the side of the floor length winter coats.

Jewels were also apparent as a big theme and were added to collars, décollage and boots to jazz up the collection. The 1940s silhouette was also prominent with cinched waists and fuller skirts but the epitome of the collection I feel was the evening wear which took on a whole new grown up level for the brand. Column dresses, mixtures of chiffon and silk materials as well as experimental transitional colours in white and grey.

Shows are continuing this evening with Basso and Brooke and Central Saint Martins MA Fashion.

Check out my full reviews for the show at www.whatbesttowear.com 

New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012/13 trend: socks in boots

When New York Fashion Week launched last Thursday (9 February 2012) no-one could foresee what trends were instantly going to be picked up within days, however, already it seems that British designer Victoria Beckham has started her own one with the socks in boots trend via her models adorning cute wooly knit socks under fabulous militant heels supplied by Christian Louboutin.

Models at Marc by Marc Jacobs wear Pantherella socks in boots

Hot on her heels was designer to the stars and several other fashion houses, Marc Jacobs, whom also added the same style Pantherella  socks to pop out of his models Dr Martin style flat boots for his Marc by Marc Jacobs collection. Pantherella, whom are incidentally celebrating their 75th anniversary this year, handed over a rich palette of charcoal, dark blue, bright red, grey and dark camel colours to the designer for the models to adorn.

Veteran designer Vera Wang also opted for the sock/boot combo encompassing mary-jane heels at one point with thinner wool designs.

However, this does look like the most fabulous accessories trend so far to emerge out of NYFW so I would bet my Michael Kors watch (apparently everyone in fashion has one) that come friday all the quirky fashion assistants and interns at London Fashion Week will have picked up on this and be rocking their bare legs and socks in boots…

Pantherella is available at Liberty’s and http://www.MrPorter.com

label.m collaborates with Vodafone at London Fashion Weekend

For industry insiders whom are lucky enough to attend London Fashion Week we all know that the TONI&GUY blow dry bar is our safe haven to detangle any stressful situation or prepare us for a hard day ahead when working on 0 hours sleep due to writing, uploading and editing posts, videos and catwalk images.

However, now the clever people at label.m (who are also heavily on-hand during LFW) have twigged on and are planning to bring you the best hair care experience during London Fashion Weekend (23-26 February 2012). Set in Somerset House and to help celebrate their 16th season as a backstage session favourite, award winning haircare brand label.m is not only being exclusively stocked at the Vodafone London Fashion Weekend on-site TONI&GUY salon but is also bringing you a brand new Makeover Bar which offers advice, tips, dry styling and hair revamps from TONI&GUY’s professional styling team. Alongside this there will also be a retail area which will be dedicated to helping clients’ achieve iconic fashion looks as well as receiving a personal product recommendation.

There are three main iconic styles to choose from which include the Sweep, the Fishtail Plait and the Top Knot. Alongside expert advice label.m will also be offering all guests an exclusive 30% discount and a free prescripted product for all customers. This is also the first time also that label.m will be showcasing their brand new luxururious Therapy Age-Defying collection which is specifically designed to help restore hair back to its most healthiest state.

For more information or to book tickets and see prices for the pop-up salon please visit londonfashionweekend.co.uk/ticket-information

Milan Fashion Week: Spring/Summer 2012 round up review

After a week long stint in Milan the fashion elite have finally packed up their bags and are heading for the last haul of fashion month in Paris.

Versace SS12 collectionWith this in mind we look to Milan to see what it’s taught us for next season and what are fashion mind set should be switching onto come spring. Unlike the first leg of our journey in New York there was no real hint of sport luxe at Milan, apart, of course, from Sportmax’s mainline collection.

Trends that were apparent throughout ranged from fun print clothing at Prada (red and blue Cadillac cars) and Dolce & Gabbana (tomatoes and chillies to name a few) to 1920s dropped hemlines at Gucci and Just Cavalli. Then there was the silk scarf, mostly used for handkerchief drop hemlines, or layering up all over at D&G. It was also a celebration for clashing prints which happened at just about every show.

Metallics were also big at Roberto Cavalli amongst others, alongside the aquatic themes at Versace and Giorgio Armani – whom both also produced Oscar worthy gowns. Donatella Versace may have shown a more fun side opting for coral, starfish, seahorse and mermaid prints with crystalized pieces but at Giorgio Armani the look was more elevated and grown up with precision tailoring. Floral prints and embellishment were also key at Antioni Marras and Prada showing off a new type of 1950s swimwear, however unlike London Fashion Week, tones were kept generally more muted in monochromes and pale pinks, alongside cerulean and indigo blues with dashes of red, green, yellow or vibrant purples.

Jil Sander, MaxMara and Gianfranco Ferre went for a more minimalistic tailored style whilst Emilio Pucci, Just Cavalli and Etro showed a folklandish and festival approach to dressing. One other main trend that was apparent and had been since New York was collar-less jackets and coats as seen throughout the shows.

Apart from the shows at Milan there was also a certain fashion buzz around design house Gucci. Not only did the Italian brand throw a lavish star-studded party to celebrate their 90th anniversary but they also decamped the who’s who of the fashion elite from Milan to Florence for the opening of the label’s museum. Costing just 6 euros to enter, with 50 per cent of the funds going straight back into a fund to help the city of Florence and their economy, the museum is set to host a back log of historic Gucci collections including its Flora print, sporting legacy and more.

London Fashion Week spring/summer 2012 trends

Spring/Summer 2012 certainly didn’t last very long in London this time round with just a five-day stint ending with a menswear spectacular at Somerset House  on Wednesday 21 September 2011.

Attracting a celebrity clad front row which included Kelly Brook, Pixie Geldoff, Jaimie Winstone, , Nicola Roberts, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, et al plus a barrage of US stars such as Olivia Palermo, Kanye West and Whitney Port alongside Anna Wintour, it was an amazement that the fashion pack actually made it to approx 18 shows per day, which were located all across London town.

Unlike New York’s sport lux appeal there was no real one trend that designers stuck to, or that run steadily throughout the corse of the ‘fashion week’, instead was a variety of trends that ranged from metallic hues at Mulberry, GILES, Gasper Garvida and Topshop alongside quirky, geometric, digital and floral prints at Holly Fulton, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou and PPQ to name a few; mainly concentrating on trousers and dresses.

Apart from embellishment (ASHISH) and a mixture of yellow shades (Nicole Farhi), cut out detailing was also key (Jaeger London).

For next season the autumn/winter 2011 fetish theme seems to have been replaced by mocha and pale coloured PVC, as seen at Marios Schwab, Antonio Berardi and Richard Nicoll.

Palettes of pastels such as sugar-coated almonds, candy floss pink, duck egg blue and a variety of pale hues were painted on pieces at Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic and Issa – who also joined in with pastel ice-cream and leaf prints inspired by Danielle Helayel’s Brazilian roots and carnival theme.

Pretty prim staples also made a comeback alongside summer knits which were shown at Caroline Charles, Paul Smith, Pringle of Scotland and Burberry, whilst Acne and designers such as Peter Pilotto showed fuller skirts reminiscent of 1950s glamour.

Sport lux did make an appearance though showing at Jean-Pierre Braganza styling tailored jackets mixed with harem style pants, whilst racer back tops, mesh overlay and cut out inserts on dresses were all apparent at Aquascutum and Clements Ribiero.

Accessory wise just as long as you are sporting a straw boater hat, fedora or embellished bib necklace you definitely will be heading in the right direction.

To end fashion week presenter Fearne Cotton decided to show her 6th collection for online store Very.co.uk. Attending front row was BFF Holly Willoughby, Whitney Port, Tom and Dougie from McFly along with Myleene Klass and Sarah Cawood. Fearne’s collection was summary, quirky and fun showing off a silk violet full length maxi – which she adorned – embellished cocktail dress with black and silver sequins, plus a mixture of day wear pieces as which included pussy bow blouses, slightly flared trousers and single breasted pinafore dresses with oversized gold buttons amongst other pieces. All extremely wearable and affordable too…