Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

After apparently insulting Amy Winehouse’s family with his homage [collection] to the singer during haute couture fashion week back in January we wondered where Jean Paul Gaultier was heading next for his autumn/winter 2012/13 collection.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

However luckily for him there was no backlash this time, instead a supportive flurry of reviews including a quotation from Vogue’s Harriet Quick whom stated that: “There were great metallics and an urban layering feel. I loved the gold and bronzes.”

She was referring of course to the graffiti inspired invite and the collection which evolved around it. JPG began by opening his show with a theatre sized curtain with an edgy yet chic background setting. This led swiftly onto a collection which seemed to be led by outerwear, more notably jackets in every shape and form: baseball, biker, evening, blazer, gilets and more, there seemed to be something for everyone.

These woman had a rock chick edge and although adorning fabulously tailored clothing seemed like they had been out all night and looked fabulous for doing so. Their hair was centrally or side parted with fluro dashes of colour painted on top; something we could imagine someone like Alice Dellal adorning come winter.

This then moved onto crazy prints in leather and python skin which were seen on matching suits and/or skirts and tops with oversized stitches in-between. For the more alluring night creature there were leather leggings, matched with cropped fur coats and a selection of gold lame and sequined pieces.

To end the show JPG wowed with a range of black and velvet evening gowns complete with thigh high split (just like Angelina) and an assortment of lace constructed pieces with bare skin showing through. Goth or glam, who cares, it was all worth seeing…

Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

For autumn/winter 2012/13 Paris Fashion Week seems to be giving a whole lot more. Clashing whole heartedly with Milan Fashion Week and exposing a lot more new and diffusion designers than usual.

BALENCIAGA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

BALENCIAGA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

One of the first to make an impression was French fashion house Balenciaga. This time round creative director Nicolas Ghesquière brought back the 1980s with a bang. There was a nod to techno-pieces, sharp tailored power suits that you could imagine his corporation adorning if this were Balenciaga Ltd. come 1989.

Ghesquière’s palette also consisted of  lots of electric blue and metallic materials on show, with animal prints, neon colours and models who walked adopted cropped hair with a slight blow dry effect; not too dissimilar to what Demi Moore would have adorned. Oversized baseball jackets and jumpers were key whilst saddle bags, glitter jumpers and roll necks were also incorporated with a-line skirts and socks and high-heeled sandals.

There were also cute transfer jumpers teamed with billowing pants as well as futuristic leather jackets with space age materials in sheer and metallic colourings.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week autumn/winter 2012 review

Just before haute couture hits our (computer) screens next week the male species have been enjoying their own nod to autumn/winter 2012 trends with Milan and Paris fashion week, which was prompted by the start of Milan Men’s Fashion Week last weekend (Saturday 14th).

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Designers to have already shown in Milan ranged from the fabulous Burberry Prorsum to quirky Prada; which boasted an array of celebrity models that included Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell and William Dafoe amongst others.

Now these chiselled Adonis’ (the models) have moved to Paris where they have already walked for Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton and Balmain to name a few and will be bringing the catwalk’s to a close later today with Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Givenchy and John Galliano.

Gaultier of course gave the crowed a spectacular event as always adorning his models with dreadlocks, dapper goatees and fiery red hair whilst being draped in a selection of textured knitwear, brick prints and precise tailoring. At Louis Vuitton menswear was inspired by 1970s Paris and illustrator Antonio Lopez as creative director Kim Jones produced a Japanese style collection with kimono silk pieces, velvet and a dash of retro shearling.

Shows will continue to run with designers such as Kenzo – whom are live streaming their show via www.kenzo.com – showing tomorrow: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are unveiling their first menswear collection for the brand. Paris Men’s Fashion Week will finish Paul Smith and Acne on Sunday evening.

Paris Fashion Week: Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 review

Karl Lagerfeld at the Red Cross Ball in Monaco...

Image via Wikipedia

It seems that ‘under the sea’ is a re-occurring theme for next season and apart from similar showings at Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, Versace and Givenchy, it now seems that Karl Lagerfeld has got in on the act for Chanel too. 

As always Chanel’s collection was held at the Grand Palais with a bleached white set decorated with oversized shells, sea horses and sea weed – which were positioned to climb up the huge glistening curtain that was containing it all. 

Clearly money being no object, for his spring/summer 2012 Chanel collection, Lagerfeld turned to the ocean for inspiration and brought a new lease of life towards a futuristic style mermaid. Models wore pleated organza tops with PVC style trousers alongside PVC suits, however this quickly changed to more transcendent pearly hues with the iconic Chanel tweed suits, jackets and cardigans being emblazoned in pearls and translucent sequins which shimmered a sea green colour in the light. 

Accessory wise Chanel brought new pearl encrusted hand-held clutch bag on to the floor – a desirable hit no doubt for next summer – as well as flat silver pointed shoe boots and signature double ‘C’ logo pearl pendants; strings of pearls were also added to models waists to create belts. 

Jellyfish style skirts in mint and pale pink conjured up sea-like movements in tulle and lace as the models walked down the catwalk and were teamed with tiered chiffon vests; these were also worn with athletic shorts. Swimwear was starch white in full body swimming suits and structured bikinis; Lagerfeld also added in a clear and navy PVC option complete with matching rain coat perhaps for the glamping festival type in us. Silver lame skirts with drawstring waists and dropped hems with ostrich feathers were also apparent.

Lagerfeld left no stone or coral patch unturned as he added scale printed dresses in cream and pink tones to the show, making next season all very chic and all very Chanel indeed. 

Paris Fashion Week: Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2012 review

For next season Stefano Pilati conjured up a filthy rich powerful muse for Yves Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2012 collection. Her style was apparent in every way from the gold bucking on the shoes to the luxurious materials on her clothing. 

Held at the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild YSL’s show was engrossed with a palette of green hues which ranged from moss to khaki to forest green shades. Pilati teamed these colours with rich jewel tones such as ruby and sapphire – carrying on from the current autumn/winter 2011/12 trend – and mixing in perfectly with cool mint, lilac, indigo and black shades. 

Key pieces came in the form of a dark green and black swing coat, which launched the show, to silk palazzo pants and elegant halter neck jumpsuits complete with jewelled belts. There was an iconic 1960s and Hollywood vibe around the collection which was cemented by the siren red lips and dramatic eye make up. 

Alongside this were strong ornate prints which came in the form of maxi skirts and dresses as well as bubble gum pink peplum pieces; Pilati also created a light midnight blue and similar black cocktail dress – a sure-fire hit for the younger crowd and cocktail parties. 

To end the show models adorned several gowns all in sheer black material with a sprinkling of gold dust thrown on and were finished off with a far eastern inspired pattern across the bottom of the dress: sending a message to the rumour mill that whatever the gossip is at present regarding Pilati’s supposed departure, he is almost certainly going nowhere just yet… 

Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2012 review

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Image via Wikipedia

French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier opened his show in quite an unusual style on Saturday evening (1 October 2011) during Paris Fashion Week. For his spring/summer collection Gaultier opted to bring out a compere that spoke to the audience in French and English beforehand telling some jokes and asking those present to clap for the models.

However, this was quite a show as the compere continued to elaborate as models came down the catwalk – carrying numbered cards – describing Gaultier’s latest range and bizarrely what the models hobbies were; somewhat resembling a beauty pageant show.

Apart from the compere Gaultier’s collection had in fact harked back to his earlier collections – approximately 15 or so years ago – with signature trench coats, striped trousers and white shirts. Alongside this were staple tattooed motifs on arms covers, sheer bodies and tights, alongside dresses and trousers.

Models also adorned a touch of 1940s style with siren red lips and victory rolls in their hair; cute sailor inspired navy blazers and breton striped clothing were also in play as well as  monochrome pieces and a mixed palette of coral, powder blue and musty yellow.

Finishing with an array of corsetry, leather and PVC Gaultier showed off his iconic styles and paired homage to his fabulous albeit extravagant designs once again.

Paris Fashion Week: Lanvin Spring/Summer 2012 review

Designer Alber Elbaz created an unusually dark and gothic collection for Lanvin’s spring/summer 2012 range, adding drama and suspense throughout.

Heavy metal music crashed around the show space whilst fashion editor’s wilted in the heat, but alongside the darkness came Lanvin’s light, and Elbaz’s creations were still just as desirable and wearable as ever.

Dark soft metallic moss-green hues adorned pencil skirts and were paired with silk tan and rose-coloured tops complete with dresses that were sliced around the rib cage and thigh. Elbaz also added in statement and signature organza cowel neck tops creating bold shapes throughout.

Petrol blue and monochrome pieces were also incorporated with sharp tailoring and mid length coats as well as soft silk oversized three-quarter length tuxedo jackets in coffee and dusky pink tones. Some outfits were matched – such as cigarette style pants and jumpers – whilst others were statement pieces of their own (the embellished evening wear).

Towards the end of the show models started to wear large pearl and jewel encrusted crucifix necklaces alongside a combination of neon green swirl printed outfits.

Elbaz however, ended the show creating an illusion of dark vampire goddess’ as models switched to black, green, citrine and turquoise blue evening dresses in silk, which were wrapped perfectly around their bodies. This was completed by a selection of sheer chiffon see-through gowns that were gathered on top and cinched in at the waist creating a skirt that almost floating in the night-light as the models paraded down the catwalk.