Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga autumn/winter 2012/13 collection

For autumn/winter 2012/13 Paris Fashion Week seems to be giving a whole lot more. Clashing whole heartedly with Milan Fashion Week and exposing a lot more new and diffusion designers than usual.

BALENCIAGA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

BALENCIAGA AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13 COLLECTION

One of the first to make an impression was French fashion house Balenciaga. This time round creative director Nicolas Ghesquière brought back the 1980s with a bang. There was a nod to techno-pieces, sharp tailored power suits that you could imagine his corporation adorning if this were Balenciaga Ltd. come 1989.

Ghesquière’s palette also consisted of  lots of electric blue and metallic materials on show, with animal prints, neon colours and models who walked adopted cropped hair with a slight blow dry effect; not too dissimilar to what Demi Moore would have adorned. Oversized baseball jackets and jumpers were key whilst saddle bags, glitter jumpers and roll necks were also incorporated with a-line skirts and socks and high-heeled sandals.

There were also cute transfer jumpers teamed with billowing pants as well as futuristic leather jackets with space age materials in sheer and metallic colourings.

Atelier Versace opens Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week 2012

This luxurious Italian brand has not shown in Paris since 2004 and yesterday, as editors from around the globe disembarked upon Paris, Atlelier Versace was re-born to show their latest collection at Haute Couture Fashion Week.

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Showing their spring/summer 2012 range under a scrutiny of famous faces which included U.S. Vogue Editor Anna Wintour, actresses Cameron Diaz, Diane Kruger and Abbie Cornish designer Donatella Versace looked on calmly as a cascade of warrior style women approached the catwalk. To start Versace teamed sci-fi style biker jackets covered in lace and lined panels with matching hot pants; both adorning gold metal trims and complete with thigh-high lace boots (or what seemed to be a mixture of lace half cut stocking over fabulous high heeled courts). This then ensued with almost felt style bodices in bright sunshine yellow; again with futuristic designs and tailoring.

The designs then proceeded onto a selection of short cocktail dresses with ruffled peplum waists and brocade materials in gold, glacier blue and greys all encased with intricate beading, sequins and detailing that would not have looked out of place on Xena: Warrior Princess.

For eveningwear Versace slightly toned it down in a palette of pillar box red, lime green, orange and cream hues on a selection of full-length gowns, again all in a complex mix of high-tech and sophisticated designs which had clearly taken months to assemble by hand.

Hair stood its own ground with on-trend scraped back high ponytails and powerful dark sultry eyes complete with nude lips. Donatella was a woman on a mission and judging by her designs she had clearly won the battle with haute couture.

Paris Men’s Fashion Week autumn/winter 2012 review

Just before haute couture hits our (computer) screens next week the male species have been enjoying their own nod to autumn/winter 2012 trends with Milan and Paris fashion week, which was prompted by the start of Milan Men’s Fashion Week last weekend (Saturday 14th).

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Louis Vuitton autumn/winter 2012 menswear collection

Designers to have already shown in Milan ranged from the fabulous Burberry Prorsum to quirky Prada; which boasted an array of celebrity models that included Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell and William Dafoe amongst others.

Now these chiselled Adonis’ (the models) have moved to Paris where they have already walked for Jean Paul Gaultier, Louis Vuitton and Balmain to name a few and will be bringing the catwalk’s to a close later today with Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, Givenchy and John Galliano.

Gaultier of course gave the crowed a spectacular event as always adorning his models with dreadlocks, dapper goatees and fiery red hair whilst being draped in a selection of textured knitwear, brick prints and precise tailoring. At Louis Vuitton menswear was inspired by 1970s Paris and illustrator Antonio Lopez as creative director Kim Jones produced a Japanese style collection with kimono silk pieces, velvet and a dash of retro shearling.

Shows will continue to run with designers such as Kenzo – whom are live streaming their show via www.kenzo.com – showing tomorrow: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are unveiling their first menswear collection for the brand. Paris Men’s Fashion Week will finish Paul Smith and Acne on Sunday evening.

Paris Fashion Week: Jean Paul Gaultier Spring/Summer 2012 review

Jean-Paul Gaultier

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French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier opened his show in quite an unusual style on Saturday evening (1 October 2011) during Paris Fashion Week. For his spring/summer collection Gaultier opted to bring out a compere that spoke to the audience in French and English beforehand telling some jokes and asking those present to clap for the models.

However, this was quite a show as the compere continued to elaborate as models came down the catwalk – carrying numbered cards – describing Gaultier’s latest range and bizarrely what the models hobbies were; somewhat resembling a beauty pageant show.

Apart from the compere Gaultier’s collection had in fact harked back to his earlier collections – approximately 15 or so years ago – with signature trench coats, striped trousers and white shirts. Alongside this were staple tattooed motifs on arms covers, sheer bodies and tights, alongside dresses and trousers.

Models also adorned a touch of 1940s style with siren red lips and victory rolls in their hair; cute sailor inspired navy blazers and breton striped clothing were also in play as well as  monochrome pieces and a mixed palette of coral, powder blue and musty yellow.

Finishing with an array of corsetry, leather and PVC Gaultier showed off his iconic styles and paired homage to his fabulous albeit extravagant designs once again.

Paris Fashion Week: Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012 review

Supermodel Miranda Kerr

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In the first show at the French fashion house since John Galliano’s departure the Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2012 collection was shown by the Dior team instead – headed up by Galliano’s former right-hand man Bill Gaytten.

After the Dior Couture show was panned back in July (sparking outrage worldwide), Gaytten and his team have been working relentlessly on this current collection until a new predecessor is announced officially. However, for now Gaytten’s collection for Dior was strong, simple and understated; a complete contrast to Galliano’s usual fairytale extravaganzas.

Models Karlie Kloss, Miranda Kerr and Karolina Kurkova all walked for the show adorning chignon 1950s style hair which matched sections of the collection perfectly. Soft separates, cardigans, organza prom style skirts and tweed collar-less coats were all thrown into the mix in soft pale blue hues and monochrome colours. Some models also adorned fabulous hats that were created by milliner Stephen Jones – a usual trait for a Dior/Galliano show.

Soft chiffon dresses in patterned prints and deep low ‘V’ plunge necklines were also shown as staple pieces beside a palette of nude, peach and pillar box reds. Belts were also used to accessorise dresses and skirts, cinching in waists.

For evening, red carpet worthy floor length chiffon gowns were matched with cute cocktail dresses and short-sleeved beaded tops paired with see-through maxi skirts; all extremely wearable.

As chic as the collection was it still does not disclose the certainty of the designer now standing in at the helm. This will be one brand that will be watched carefully over the next six months…

Hannah MacGibbon to be replaced by Clare Waight Keller at Chloé

What a difference a weekend can make.

As we’re all settling back into a sunny Monday morning suddenly (via Twitter of course) important fashion news was broken that designer Hannah MacGibbon is to leave French fashion house Chloé, and to be replaced by Pringle of Scotland designer Clare Waight Keller.

According to Elleuk.com Chloé announced that MacGibbon was leaving to ‘pursue new projects.’

‘We are grateful to Hannah for her contribution and commitment to Chloé,’ CEO Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye stated. ‘Her considerable talents will be missed; we are proud to count Hannah among the hall of fame of great designers who have marked the history of Chloé since 1952. I wish Hannah well in her new projects.’

So, what next? Well Waight Keller, who resigned from Pringle of Scotland in March 2011 is said to be joining Chloé as Creative Director on June 1, 2011.

‘I am thrilled to be joining one of the most prestigious design houses in Paris,’ added Waight Keller. ‘Chloé is a brand that conveys a beautiful sense of effortless femininity and vivacious sophistication that I look forward to continuing into the next era.’

As for MacGibbon who knows. What we do know if that she played a fundamental part in changing the course of the fashion house into its romantic, breezy and chic style it is today and helped launched the house’s fragrances. So whatever endeavour she does will of course be good…

Kanye West launches a range of scarves

Kanye West

Image via Wikipedia

Oh how we have missed Kanye West.

The once potty-mouthed front-row fashionista, who originally shot to fame with a musical rapping career, (which seemed to span a lifetime –  and had the fashion credentials to boot ) lost it all in the blink of a drunken-Taylor-Swift-moment live on stage, shocking us all, and then disappearing off into the night like Batman to his Bat-Signal. And so, we thought he had gone out of our lives forever. But how wrong we were, as Kanye was just off doing another ‘ol internship (this time for Karl Lagerfeld-designed fashion house Fendi).

So, instead of keeping his word swearing he would never create a celebrity/fashion line after Linday Lohan’s efforts – ‘Did you not see the Lindsay and Ungaro collection? That was 9/11 for celebrities doing fashion. After that I thought: ‘Well I can’t do a line now’ – it seems that even the great Mr West can change his mind.

It is reported that Kanye’s new fashion line of scarves were inspired by the artwork from his last album My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy, where he collaborated with artist George Condo West, and has since been reworked by M/M art direction and graphic design duo Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag, who approached West themselves and wanted to ‘remix the artistic elements into a range of silk scarves pairing their baroque-style letters with [artist George] Condo’s images, such as a severed head wearing a crown and a naked sphinx straddling a likeness of West.”

The limited edition range is set to be sold exclusively at the Colette boutique in Paris, France and online at MMParis.com.

Maybe instead of playing the Blame Game, and being Lost In The World, Kanye has finally found his fashion-calling?

SOURCES: telegraph.co.uk/fashion; Nowness.com